In my prior posting, entitled "Ancient Astronauts and Contemporary Skepticism," I challenged the skeptics (assuming they do not want to acknowledge that the Nazca Lines were made to be viewed by an ancient astronaut) to provide a credible explanation of those geoglyphs. I argued that the people of Nazca cannot be considered unique in human history and that the skeptics need to find parallels elsewhere. However, I imagine that, instead of trying to produce a mundane explanation of the Nazca Lines, the skeptics could simply argue that I have not proven the contrary case.
The basic facts of the Nazca desert are easy to comprehend. Those large geoglyphs cannot be grasped by humans from the ground; in most cases, the hills or mountains are too distant for anyone to even notice that they are there. The figures on the ground can only be recognized from the air. Since humans were unable to fly until relatively recent times, it is logical to consider extraterrestrials as a potential explanation. I have seen skeptics, in desperation, argue that the people of Nazca, in the sixth century, knew how to make air balloons, but I do not believe it for one second.
For whom or for what did the people of Nazca make those ground drawings? Surely, they made those geoglyphs to be viewed by someone or something. That is unquestionable; it is not rational to believe that mass insanity could last the more than one hundred years it took to complete the project. If they made the geoglyphs to be viewed by an ancient astronaut, then where are their drawings of the ancient astronaut? Such drawings do exist. I provide one of them on my website, in a footnote to Gersiane De Brito's "Tiwanaku Alien and Evolution" article. That picture is not a geoglyph, however; it comes from Nazca pottery, but the timing coincides. This makes sense. They likely thought it might be offensive to the alien to draw a picture of the alien on the ground so they only put it on the pottery, where the alien could not see it.
by Morten St. George
Beyond any doubt, the ancient astronaut depicted on the Nazca pottery is the same ancient astronaut depicted in the Tiwanaku engravings. In the Tiwanaku versions, the aquatic, alien nature of the creature is easier to spot. Also in Tiwanaku, with all that bird symbolism, it is apparent that this ancient astronaut could fly, freestyle, up and through the air.
Thus, the Nazca Lines have a viable explanation: the geoglyphs were made to be seen by an ancient astronaut that could fly like a bird with the aid of anti-gravity hand-held propulsion devices, without the use of aircraft or spacecraft of any kind. The people of Nazca drew diverse animal figures on the ground to attract the alien's attention and to entertain it, and they drew lines and directional arrows on the ground to lead the alien back to the people of Nazca.
I think it time for the world's scientists, archaeologists, anthropologists, psychologists, etcetera, to come to their senses and try to evaluate, objectively, the thinking behind the Nazca geoglyphs. The potential for uncovering an instance of genuine alien contact makes it a worthwhile endeavor.
Thursday, October 4, 2007
Monday, September 17, 2007
The Thrill Of Big Bird Hunting
by Abhishek Agarwal
When most people think of bird hunting it is only in reference to smaller birds, such as duck and partridge, but there is another kind of bird hunting hunters can partake in, big bird hunting.
The most popular big birds to hunt are turkey and geese. Many hunters like to hunt and kill their own wild turkey for Thanksgiving dinner; doing this makes a special occasion even more memorable. Bid bird hunting isn't as easy as stepping out into the woods though, there are some special precautions to take that wouldn't necessarily apply when hunting for smaller birds.
The most important issue to address is one of safety. People don't generally think of birds as being dangerous, but this isn't always the case; when hunting for smaller birds, a human can easily overpower them, but big bird hunting is an all together different story. Turkeys and geese can be dangerous; When aggravated they can become very aggressive, and while they cannot kill a human, they can inflict a lot of pain with their sharp beaks.
For this reason it is important to be sure the bird is dead before approaching it. Birds have very dense layers of feathers, so it is not uncommon to only stun or wound a bird. Many hunters assume that if the bird hits the ground it has been killed, but if the hunter makes a mistake and approaches the bird before being sure, panic can ensue. Hunters that receive the most injuries from big birds are the ones that underestimate their power and aggressive personalities.
To ensure a clean kill, choosing the right gun is essential. When planning your big bird hunting trip, know what you plan to use the bird for, this will aid your decision in choosing a gun. If you plan to eat the bird, using a shotgun will not be the best choice. A shotgun projects dozens of tiny pellets that will become lodged in the flesh and impossible to find upon cleaning. Be sure to use a gun that shoots only one bullet, this way it will make finding the bullet easy when cleaning the bird.
Bow hunting is also permitted on big birds, and your local outfitter will be able to assist you in choosing the right arrows. As always, safety is always the main concern in the field, so be sure to wear hunter orange vests and caps, and if hunting for turkey, avoid carrying anything that is blue, red, or white, as these are often colors associated with turkeys.
Download Abhishek's FREE Hunting Report, "Plan The Perfect Hunting Trip...On Any Budget!" and learn some amazing Hunting tips and tricks - And save a lot of your time, money and effort! Click here to visit www.Hunting-Guru.com
When most people think of bird hunting it is only in reference to smaller birds, such as duck and partridge, but there is another kind of bird hunting hunters can partake in, big bird hunting.
The most popular big birds to hunt are turkey and geese. Many hunters like to hunt and kill their own wild turkey for Thanksgiving dinner; doing this makes a special occasion even more memorable. Bid bird hunting isn't as easy as stepping out into the woods though, there are some special precautions to take that wouldn't necessarily apply when hunting for smaller birds.
The most important issue to address is one of safety. People don't generally think of birds as being dangerous, but this isn't always the case; when hunting for smaller birds, a human can easily overpower them, but big bird hunting is an all together different story. Turkeys and geese can be dangerous; When aggravated they can become very aggressive, and while they cannot kill a human, they can inflict a lot of pain with their sharp beaks.
For this reason it is important to be sure the bird is dead before approaching it. Birds have very dense layers of feathers, so it is not uncommon to only stun or wound a bird. Many hunters assume that if the bird hits the ground it has been killed, but if the hunter makes a mistake and approaches the bird before being sure, panic can ensue. Hunters that receive the most injuries from big birds are the ones that underestimate their power and aggressive personalities.
To ensure a clean kill, choosing the right gun is essential. When planning your big bird hunting trip, know what you plan to use the bird for, this will aid your decision in choosing a gun. If you plan to eat the bird, using a shotgun will not be the best choice. A shotgun projects dozens of tiny pellets that will become lodged in the flesh and impossible to find upon cleaning. Be sure to use a gun that shoots only one bullet, this way it will make finding the bullet easy when cleaning the bird.
Bow hunting is also permitted on big birds, and your local outfitter will be able to assist you in choosing the right arrows. As always, safety is always the main concern in the field, so be sure to wear hunter orange vests and caps, and if hunting for turkey, avoid carrying anything that is blue, red, or white, as these are often colors associated with turkeys.
Download Abhishek's FREE Hunting Report, "Plan The Perfect Hunting Trip...On Any Budget!" and learn some amazing Hunting tips and tricks - And save a lot of your time, money and effort! Click here to visit www.Hunting-Guru.com
Tuesday, August 28, 2007
Bird-B-Gone Keeps Birds off Bridges
by Fran Prisco
BIRD*B*GONE KEEPS BIRDS OFF BRIDGES!
Bird*B*Gone, Inc. Bird Control Products keep Pest Birds off of bridges nationwide. Bird*B*Gone, is the leading manufacturer of bird control products in the US. Their products humanly deter pest birds such as pigeons, seagulls and crows from buildings, structures, bridges, highway overpasses and other areas they like to nest and roost.
Bruce Donoho owner of Bird*B*Gone, Inc. says bridges make a perfect nesting and roosting area for birds such as pigeons. They are protected here from interference by people, predators and the elements. The droppings left behind by these birds can erode building materials such as concrete and steel. When asked how to eliminate the birds from bridges and overpasses, Donoho says you must create a physical barrier that keeps the birds from landing. This can be done with bird spikes, bird netting or even shock systems. If the birds have no where to land, they will move on to another area.
Danny Sicurella of Global Bird Management Corp. has used Bird*B*Gone products on many highway bridges throughout Illinois and Arkansas. The Illinois Department of Transportation contracted him to "Bird Proof" highway overpasses that where infested with pest birds such as pigeons and swallows. Danny says that in some cases the feces left behind by the pigeons was 3 - 4 feet deep on the concrete supports. The pigeon feces, over time, will erode the concrete and compromise the support. He used bird netting to secure the bridges from pigeons nesting and roosting. Danny says that protected birds such as swallows are also a big problem on highway overpasses. Once a protected bird takes up "home" on the bridge, it is illegal to do bridge maintenance until the bird has gone. This can really become a safety issue. Danny also used Bird*B*Gone Bird Netting to keep the swallows from making homes on these bridges.
Rob Lang of Smithereen in Chicago has bird proofed 26 viaduct/overpasses in the last 3 years. Lang states that most of the structures have had pigeons living on them for years. He says that the feces left behind is "deep and disgusting"! A large part of the project is cleaning and sanitizing the bridge before bird control products can be installed. Rob uses bird netting and bird spikes from Bird*B*Gone to keep pest pigeons from nesting and roosting on support beams.
In Dallas Texas, Gulf States Bird Control, owned and operated by Brett Mayes, has been contacted frequently to provide bird control for bridges and overpasses. Brett says that he has put in many bids but has not done any jobs. He fears that cities and transit authorities still are not aware of the importance of bird proofing bridges, not just the health risk to maintenance workers, but the structural integrity of the structures themselves.
Donoho also states that Bird*B*Gone products are keeping such bridges as the Golden Gate, Brooklyn Bridge and others bird free. Not only are we protecting the bridge infrastructure, we are also protecting the health of those who use the bridges daily.
Bird-B-Gone, Inc. is located in Mission Viejo, CA can be contacted at 800-392-6915. http://www.birdbgone.com/
BIRD*B*GONE KEEPS BIRDS OFF BRIDGES!
Bird*B*Gone, Inc. Bird Control Products keep Pest Birds off of bridges nationwide. Bird*B*Gone, is the leading manufacturer of bird control products in the US. Their products humanly deter pest birds such as pigeons, seagulls and crows from buildings, structures, bridges, highway overpasses and other areas they like to nest and roost.
Bruce Donoho owner of Bird*B*Gone, Inc. says bridges make a perfect nesting and roosting area for birds such as pigeons. They are protected here from interference by people, predators and the elements. The droppings left behind by these birds can erode building materials such as concrete and steel. When asked how to eliminate the birds from bridges and overpasses, Donoho says you must create a physical barrier that keeps the birds from landing. This can be done with bird spikes, bird netting or even shock systems. If the birds have no where to land, they will move on to another area.
Danny Sicurella of Global Bird Management Corp. has used Bird*B*Gone products on many highway bridges throughout Illinois and Arkansas. The Illinois Department of Transportation contracted him to "Bird Proof" highway overpasses that where infested with pest birds such as pigeons and swallows. Danny says that in some cases the feces left behind by the pigeons was 3 - 4 feet deep on the concrete supports. The pigeon feces, over time, will erode the concrete and compromise the support. He used bird netting to secure the bridges from pigeons nesting and roosting. Danny says that protected birds such as swallows are also a big problem on highway overpasses. Once a protected bird takes up "home" on the bridge, it is illegal to do bridge maintenance until the bird has gone. This can really become a safety issue. Danny also used Bird*B*Gone Bird Netting to keep the swallows from making homes on these bridges.
Rob Lang of Smithereen in Chicago has bird proofed 26 viaduct/overpasses in the last 3 years. Lang states that most of the structures have had pigeons living on them for years. He says that the feces left behind is "deep and disgusting"! A large part of the project is cleaning and sanitizing the bridge before bird control products can be installed. Rob uses bird netting and bird spikes from Bird*B*Gone to keep pest pigeons from nesting and roosting on support beams.
In Dallas Texas, Gulf States Bird Control, owned and operated by Brett Mayes, has been contacted frequently to provide bird control for bridges and overpasses. Brett says that he has put in many bids but has not done any jobs. He fears that cities and transit authorities still are not aware of the importance of bird proofing bridges, not just the health risk to maintenance workers, but the structural integrity of the structures themselves.
Donoho also states that Bird*B*Gone products are keeping such bridges as the Golden Gate, Brooklyn Bridge and others bird free. Not only are we protecting the bridge infrastructure, we are also protecting the health of those who use the bridges daily.
Bird-B-Gone, Inc. is located in Mission Viejo, CA can be contacted at 800-392-6915. http://www.birdbgone.com/
Sunday, July 29, 2007
Parrot Training Tips - The UP Command
By: Nora Caterino
When training you parrot, the "Up" command is the very first behavior you should train your bird. Whether you have a tame parrot that is just weaned or have an older, untamed parrot, the process is still important. It's a question of good manners to teach this parrot training method!
The process for training your parrot behaviors is much easier when training a hand-fed parrot than training a parrot that is not tame. When you work with an untamed parrot, you'll find it works best to use a spare perch or untreated wooden dowel which is rather long. This will allow the parrot training session to begin without the parrot being asked to step onto your hand at first.
The first step is choosing location. I like to see people training their parrots outside the cage. Sometimes that just can't be arranged. You can work on training your parrot while the parrot inside the cage. This is easy if you have a large opening as the door. Any cages have very large secondary doors with smaller openings for inserting food and water dishes, making it easy to train inside this type of cage. Choose a dowel or perch appropriate for the type parrot species you own so your parrot will be able to stand comfortably on the perch.
In the first session of parrot training, you should position the dowel or perch above the parrot's feet but also below the breast. At the same time, say "Up" clearly. Don't shout or be loud, simply say the word 'Up'. As you speak, slide the dowel slowly toward the bird and it will naturally place a foot on the dowel or perch.
Once your parrot has successfully stepped onto the perch, or even placed one foot on the perch at first, offer praise. Let your parrot know how pleased you are with love and treats. These steps should be repeated for approximately 10 minutes per session you spend training your bird. If possible, 2 parrot training sessions every day are best. It is not effective to hold one long session. If you can only train your parrot once per day, limit the session to 10 minutes.
Training your bird requires consistency in order to be successful. Once your bird has performed the Up command, do not allow it to refuse to respond on cue, yet do not punish it. Simply push the perch toward it a bit more. Your parrot must understand something is expected when you ask it to step up.
When training your parrot let your bird know that you will provide treats, love and attention when the bird steps up. Each time the parrot does the behavior, let it know you are pleased. Treats can be used, but never rely entirely on treats; praise is the greatest reward, especially for tame parrots.
Once training your parrot as progress to the point that your bird is comfortable stepping onto a dowel or stick, shorten the distance on the dowel from your hand to the bird. This parrot training strategy, if the bird is not tame, works best if you only shorten the perch once a week. More frequent changes in the training can stress the bird and cause it to lose trust in you.
As training your bird progresses, a point will be reached where the distance from the parrot to you hand is quite small. Then next step is to ask the parrot to step directly onto your hand or arm. This parrot training step is a big move for your bird, so be patient and loving.
Parrot training in manners-type commands can progress quickly or slowly. A lot depends on you, your consistency and your parrot. If the parrot has been over-stressed or made fearful through abuse or trauma, it can take a longer time. If your parrot is only learning to trust you, the process can occur quite quickly. If your parrot is a tame, hand-fed baby, the process can happen in only a few days.
When training your parrot that was hand-fed, you can count on the entire process being quick and easy. You may even begin with the final step and simply speak the command while asking the parrot to step onto your hand.
You can learn a lot about your bird's level of trust by watching the bird's body language training your bird includes learning to read its communications about comfort levels shown via posture, stance, and other body language elements. Parrot training is much easier if you pay attention to these clues.
Article Source: http://www.superfeature.com
Master training your bird in simple steps. Claim a free 1h45 minutes audio on parrot feather plucking, biting and screaming with parrot training expert Nora Caterino.
Don't reprint this article. Instead, reprint a free unique content version of this same article.
When training you parrot, the "Up" command is the very first behavior you should train your bird. Whether you have a tame parrot that is just weaned or have an older, untamed parrot, the process is still important. It's a question of good manners to teach this parrot training method!
The process for training your parrot behaviors is much easier when training a hand-fed parrot than training a parrot that is not tame. When you work with an untamed parrot, you'll find it works best to use a spare perch or untreated wooden dowel which is rather long. This will allow the parrot training session to begin without the parrot being asked to step onto your hand at first.
The first step is choosing location. I like to see people training their parrots outside the cage. Sometimes that just can't be arranged. You can work on training your parrot while the parrot inside the cage. This is easy if you have a large opening as the door. Any cages have very large secondary doors with smaller openings for inserting food and water dishes, making it easy to train inside this type of cage. Choose a dowel or perch appropriate for the type parrot species you own so your parrot will be able to stand comfortably on the perch.
In the first session of parrot training, you should position the dowel or perch above the parrot's feet but also below the breast. At the same time, say "Up" clearly. Don't shout or be loud, simply say the word 'Up'. As you speak, slide the dowel slowly toward the bird and it will naturally place a foot on the dowel or perch.
Once your parrot has successfully stepped onto the perch, or even placed one foot on the perch at first, offer praise. Let your parrot know how pleased you are with love and treats. These steps should be repeated for approximately 10 minutes per session you spend training your bird. If possible, 2 parrot training sessions every day are best. It is not effective to hold one long session. If you can only train your parrot once per day, limit the session to 10 minutes.
Training your bird requires consistency in order to be successful. Once your bird has performed the Up command, do not allow it to refuse to respond on cue, yet do not punish it. Simply push the perch toward it a bit more. Your parrot must understand something is expected when you ask it to step up.
When training your parrot let your bird know that you will provide treats, love and attention when the bird steps up. Each time the parrot does the behavior, let it know you are pleased. Treats can be used, but never rely entirely on treats; praise is the greatest reward, especially for tame parrots.
Once training your parrot as progress to the point that your bird is comfortable stepping onto a dowel or stick, shorten the distance on the dowel from your hand to the bird. This parrot training strategy, if the bird is not tame, works best if you only shorten the perch once a week. More frequent changes in the training can stress the bird and cause it to lose trust in you.
As training your bird progresses, a point will be reached where the distance from the parrot to you hand is quite small. Then next step is to ask the parrot to step directly onto your hand or arm. This parrot training step is a big move for your bird, so be patient and loving.
Parrot training in manners-type commands can progress quickly or slowly. A lot depends on you, your consistency and your parrot. If the parrot has been over-stressed or made fearful through abuse or trauma, it can take a longer time. If your parrot is only learning to trust you, the process can occur quite quickly. If your parrot is a tame, hand-fed baby, the process can happen in only a few days.
When training your parrot that was hand-fed, you can count on the entire process being quick and easy. You may even begin with the final step and simply speak the command while asking the parrot to step onto your hand.
You can learn a lot about your bird's level of trust by watching the bird's body language training your bird includes learning to read its communications about comfort levels shown via posture, stance, and other body language elements. Parrot training is much easier if you pay attention to these clues.
Article Source: http://www.superfeature.com
Master training your bird in simple steps. Claim a free 1h45 minutes audio on parrot feather plucking, biting and screaming with parrot training expert Nora Caterino.
Don't reprint this article. Instead, reprint a free unique content version of this same article.
Friday, July 27, 2007
Do Wild Birds Become Dependent On Feeders?
By: Mike Kershaw
Many people argue that if you feed your birds, it could be a bad thing! They claim that the birds will start to depend on your food and lose the ability to find their own.
There are many that think birds will become dependent on the feed you provide resulting in a diminished ability for the birds to find their own food. Others feel that birds will adapt to any situation and will find their own food if a food source fails to provide sufficient food for them and their family.
As reported in Bird Watcher's Digest, researchers Margaret Brittingham and Stanley Temple found that black-capped chickadees take, on average, only 20-25% of their winter food requirements from feeders. But, they also demonstrated a significant correlation between an individual bird's ability to survive the winter and the use of bird feeders.
Evidence shows that aves that eat food provided by humans through feeders had an annual (not just winter) survival rate that is 8% higher (up to 95% from 87%) than those birds that don't eat food provided by humans. For winter (as opposed to month-to-month), 69% of the feeder using birds survived the winter where only 37% of wild non-feeder using birds survived the winter.
If more wild birds survive the winter when we feed them, what are the implications? In simple terms, it means that without our help, a higher number of birds fail to survive the winter. If we help, more birds will survive. Curiously, even though our food supply will decrease the winter death rate, our avian friends will not completely rely on us. If your bird feeders are consistently empty, these amazing animals will almost always take flight to find another source of food on their own. You will also notice that in the spring, when food abounds, the birds are not as active at the feeders as they are in the winter when food is harder to find.
We can only suspect that different birds, like people, have different levels of dependence. But, the bottom line is that birds will adapt. If one fails to continue a consistent feeding program, the birds will adapt and search for food.
I recommend that if you start a bird feeding program, stay consistent. It is best if you fill the feeders at the same time every day or whatever interval you need and ensure that the feeders do not stay empty for extended periods. For really great public information about bird feeding, go to http://www.americanbirding.org/
Also, if you plan to go on vacation or holiday, plan for your absence. In your short-term (1-4 days) absence from home, a good practice is to completely stock your feeder and also place some on the earth and around vegetation in the general area of your feeding stations. If you are going to be gone for an extended time, ask your friends, neighbors, or relatives to check and fill your feeders on a consistent basis.
As for winter feeding, it is more serious. Some bird populations may not migrate to areas of higher food availability if there is a reliable source near their summer habitats. Thus, if you feed birds on a consistent basis over the spring and summer, it is important that you are extremely consistent in the winter, when some species may rely on your food to survive.
To make a long story short, it is better for survival rates if you feed wild birds in your yard. But if you decide to feed them, it is ideal if you are consistent in your feeding.
Many people argue that if you feed your birds, it could be a bad thing! They claim that the birds will start to depend on your food and lose the ability to find their own.
There are many that think birds will become dependent on the feed you provide resulting in a diminished ability for the birds to find their own food. Others feel that birds will adapt to any situation and will find their own food if a food source fails to provide sufficient food for them and their family.
As reported in Bird Watcher's Digest, researchers Margaret Brittingham and Stanley Temple found that black-capped chickadees take, on average, only 20-25% of their winter food requirements from feeders. But, they also demonstrated a significant correlation between an individual bird's ability to survive the winter and the use of bird feeders.
Evidence shows that aves that eat food provided by humans through feeders had an annual (not just winter) survival rate that is 8% higher (up to 95% from 87%) than those birds that don't eat food provided by humans. For winter (as opposed to month-to-month), 69% of the feeder using birds survived the winter where only 37% of wild non-feeder using birds survived the winter.
If more wild birds survive the winter when we feed them, what are the implications? In simple terms, it means that without our help, a higher number of birds fail to survive the winter. If we help, more birds will survive. Curiously, even though our food supply will decrease the winter death rate, our avian friends will not completely rely on us. If your bird feeders are consistently empty, these amazing animals will almost always take flight to find another source of food on their own. You will also notice that in the spring, when food abounds, the birds are not as active at the feeders as they are in the winter when food is harder to find.
We can only suspect that different birds, like people, have different levels of dependence. But, the bottom line is that birds will adapt. If one fails to continue a consistent feeding program, the birds will adapt and search for food.
I recommend that if you start a bird feeding program, stay consistent. It is best if you fill the feeders at the same time every day or whatever interval you need and ensure that the feeders do not stay empty for extended periods. For really great public information about bird feeding, go to http://www.americanbirding.org/
Also, if you plan to go on vacation or holiday, plan for your absence. In your short-term (1-4 days) absence from home, a good practice is to completely stock your feeder and also place some on the earth and around vegetation in the general area of your feeding stations. If you are going to be gone for an extended time, ask your friends, neighbors, or relatives to check and fill your feeders on a consistent basis.
As for winter feeding, it is more serious. Some bird populations may not migrate to areas of higher food availability if there is a reliable source near their summer habitats. Thus, if you feed birds on a consistent basis over the spring and summer, it is important that you are extremely consistent in the winter, when some species may rely on your food to survive.
To make a long story short, it is better for survival rates if you feed wild birds in your yard. But if you decide to feed them, it is ideal if you are consistent in your feeding.
Article Source: http://www.superfeature.com
Mike Kershaw has a graduate degree in biological sciences and is an expert in attracting and retaining wild birds to your backyard. Mike is a wild bird enthusiast and owner/operator of the online wild bird supplies superstore The Bird Warehouse.
Thursday, July 26, 2007
BIRD PICTURE BOOKS
Are You My Mother? by P. D. Eastman. Pre-K. This classic story about the little bird who goes looking for his mother has lots of repetition and is terrific for storytime.
The Baby Beebee Bird by Diane Redfield Massie. Illustrated by Steven Kellogg. HarperCollins, 2000. 0060280832. 32 p. Pre-K. The baby bird keeps all the other animals awake with his “bee-bee-bobbi-bobbi” singing. Finally the animals think of a solution—they keep him awake during the day. Wonderful for storytime.
The Brave Little Parrot by Rafe Martin. Illustrated by Susan Gaber. Penguin Group (USA) (Putnam), 1998. 9780399228254. 32 p. K-3. As a reward for trying to put out a forest fire, a little parrot is given colored plumage in this Indian jataka tale.
The Day of the Blackbird: A Tale of Northern Italy by Tomie de Paola. Penguin Group (USA) (Putnam), 1997. 0399229299. 32 p. K-3. In this Italian tale, a faithful white dove stays through the winter to sing for an ailing duke.
Don’t Let the Pigeon Drive the Bus by Mo Willems. Hyperion, 2003. 078681988X.
36 p. K-3. This very funny book is about a pigeon who is absolutely determined to drive the bus while the driver is away.
The Horrendous Hullabaloo by Margaret Mahy. K-3. Miffed that her pirate nephew never invites her to the parties he attends, an old woman throws a wonderfully horrendous hullabaloo for herself and his parrot.
Martha by Gennady Spirin. Penguin Group (USA) (Philomel), 2005. 0399239804. 32p. K-3. The author relates how he and his Moscow family rescued Martha, a crow with a broken wing, and how she joined their household.
Princess Penelope’s Parrot by Helen Lester. Walter Lorraine, 1996. 0395783208. 32p. K-3. A spoiled princess’s chances with a handsome prince are ruined when her browbeaten parrot repeats to him all the rude comments the princess has made.
Rosa’s Parrot by Jan Wahl. Illustrated by Kim Howard. Charlesbridge Publishing, 1999. 1580890113. K-3. Rosa is hard of hearing, and she relies on her parrot, Pico, to repeat things loudly for her, but sometimes Pico takes advantage of Rosa to create mischief.
To Sophie’s Window by Holly Keller. Greenwillow, 2005. 006056282. 32 p. K-3. When Caruso, a little bird who is afraid to fly, is blown out of his home one windy night, he must rely on a new friend, a dog named Sophie, to take him back to his parents.
Top Banana by Cari Best. Illustrated by Erika Oller. Orchard, 1997. 0531330095. 32 p.
K-3. Benny the parrot, an amazing bird with the ability to read, has everything a bird could want until he has to share his owner’s attention with a rare flower.
Tough Boris by Mem Fox. Illustrated by Kathryn Brown. Harcourt, 1994. 0152896120. 32p. Pre-K. Boris is a rough and tough pirate, but when his parrot dies, he cries.
Tree of Birds by Susan Meddaugh. Walter Lorraine, 1990. 0395531470. 32 p. K-3. When Harry nurses Sally, an injured bird, back to health, her friends arrive to make sure Harry doesn’t keep her as a pet.
A Visit to the Country by Herchel Johnson. Illustrated by Romare Bearden. HarperCollins, 1989. 0060228490. 32 p. K-3. Mike nurses an injured cardinal back to health but knows he must return it to the wild.
What Is a Wise Bird Like You Doing in a Silly Tale Like This? by Uri Shulevitz. Farar, Straus & Giroux, 2000. 0374383006. 40 p. K-3 or older. This peculiar story elates the doings of the Emperor of Pickleberry and his ingenious talking bird Lou.
From : www.state.lib.la.us
The Baby Beebee Bird by Diane Redfield Massie. Illustrated by Steven Kellogg. HarperCollins, 2000. 0060280832. 32 p. Pre-K. The baby bird keeps all the other animals awake with his “bee-bee-bobbi-bobbi” singing. Finally the animals think of a solution—they keep him awake during the day. Wonderful for storytime.
The Brave Little Parrot by Rafe Martin. Illustrated by Susan Gaber. Penguin Group (USA) (Putnam), 1998. 9780399228254. 32 p. K-3. As a reward for trying to put out a forest fire, a little parrot is given colored plumage in this Indian jataka tale.
The Day of the Blackbird: A Tale of Northern Italy by Tomie de Paola. Penguin Group (USA) (Putnam), 1997. 0399229299. 32 p. K-3. In this Italian tale, a faithful white dove stays through the winter to sing for an ailing duke.
Don’t Let the Pigeon Drive the Bus by Mo Willems. Hyperion, 2003. 078681988X.
36 p. K-3. This very funny book is about a pigeon who is absolutely determined to drive the bus while the driver is away.
The Horrendous Hullabaloo by Margaret Mahy. K-3. Miffed that her pirate nephew never invites her to the parties he attends, an old woman throws a wonderfully horrendous hullabaloo for herself and his parrot.
Martha by Gennady Spirin. Penguin Group (USA) (Philomel), 2005. 0399239804. 32p. K-3. The author relates how he and his Moscow family rescued Martha, a crow with a broken wing, and how she joined their household.
Princess Penelope’s Parrot by Helen Lester. Walter Lorraine, 1996. 0395783208. 32p. K-3. A spoiled princess’s chances with a handsome prince are ruined when her browbeaten parrot repeats to him all the rude comments the princess has made.
Rosa’s Parrot by Jan Wahl. Illustrated by Kim Howard. Charlesbridge Publishing, 1999. 1580890113. K-3. Rosa is hard of hearing, and she relies on her parrot, Pico, to repeat things loudly for her, but sometimes Pico takes advantage of Rosa to create mischief.
To Sophie’s Window by Holly Keller. Greenwillow, 2005. 006056282. 32 p. K-3. When Caruso, a little bird who is afraid to fly, is blown out of his home one windy night, he must rely on a new friend, a dog named Sophie, to take him back to his parents.
Top Banana by Cari Best. Illustrated by Erika Oller. Orchard, 1997. 0531330095. 32 p.
K-3. Benny the parrot, an amazing bird with the ability to read, has everything a bird could want until he has to share his owner’s attention with a rare flower.
Tough Boris by Mem Fox. Illustrated by Kathryn Brown. Harcourt, 1994. 0152896120. 32p. Pre-K. Boris is a rough and tough pirate, but when his parrot dies, he cries.
Tree of Birds by Susan Meddaugh. Walter Lorraine, 1990. 0395531470. 32 p. K-3. When Harry nurses Sally, an injured bird, back to health, her friends arrive to make sure Harry doesn’t keep her as a pet.
A Visit to the Country by Herchel Johnson. Illustrated by Romare Bearden. HarperCollins, 1989. 0060228490. 32 p. K-3. Mike nurses an injured cardinal back to health but knows he must return it to the wild.
What Is a Wise Bird Like You Doing in a Silly Tale Like This? by Uri Shulevitz. Farar, Straus & Giroux, 2000. 0374383006. 40 p. K-3 or older. This peculiar story elates the doings of the Emperor of Pickleberry and his ingenious talking bird Lou.
From : www.state.lib.la.us
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